Up On A Roof

In late June, before any of the tropical storms or hurricanes came to this corner of the Caribbean, the palaperos came. Four generations of them. Palaperos are the people, traditionally men, who make palapa roofs. Palapa roofs are roofs made of palm thatch. The calling of being a palapero is passed down withsin various families, as its been traditionally way for thousands of years. Typically, palaperos work without nets, without good ladders, without helmets, or restraints. And they wear sandals while climbing in high places on narrow, wood supports.

The roof on the Nah Yaxche, this house, was 15 years old. The original roof was installed by Sixto and his family. And though we'd been repairing it, the time had come, as it does eventually with all things, to replace the roof. It was worn out. And it couldn't be repaired any more. It would not stop leaking from TSs or bigger Hs. This was a big task: the roof is extremely tall,and round, and has many poles supporting it. The supports were all still in great shape, so they did not have to be changed. Sixto again returned and with his family replaced the whole thing. There are before and after and during photos for another essay (one to be put up when I have an Internet connection like a fire hose rather than the straw I'm using here).

This essay is just to show you two photos of the finished roof. Inside:

and outside:

And, of course, to note that this kind of indigenous, traditional, green architecture is art. Of course. Just look at what goes into it and how it's done. But more important, and essential to its being great art, it works. It's cool in the house even when it's bright and hot outside like today. And ceiling fans are more than enough to keep it cool. It's dry even when there are gail winds and downpours from TSs and Hs. Put simply, if you were going to design a green house for this corner of the Caribbean, one with a small carbon footprint, you just not do better than this house. What a remarkable structure it is. Is it any wonder why I love it so much?

Up On A Roof

(Note: This essay is an appreciation of traditional architecture in Quintana Roo, Mexico. It is the second in an informal series. The first essay is here.)

One of the greatest, if not the greatest invention of Mayan traditional building is the palapa roof. A palapa is made of palm that has been dried and tied together so that it can then be fastened to a wooden frame and withstand both high wind (hurricane winds, in fact) and heavy, driving rain (hurriane rain, in fact). It also provides shade from a hot tropical sun. Put on a building with the right openings, it can create a delicious cool spot in the midst of intense heat and humidity. Put simply, the palapa is a natural wonder.

At Nah Yaxche there are a number of palapa roofs. Each is slightly different in shape, but the construction is basically the same. These roofs are constructed by palaperos. The artisanship of being a palapero is passed down within a family. It is not unusual to see two or three generations working on the same roof. The oldest, most skilled member might not go up on the roof. The youngest member gets to do the heavy lifting, carrying material up and down the ladder. The main artisan work is done by those who stand on the roof and install it. None of this is approved by OSHA. These are trained professionals. Do Not Try This At Home.

Here is what a palapa roof looks like from outside. This photo is of the main roof at Nah Yaxche. It is very tall. As you can see, after the roof is completed, a net is placed over the roofing material. This keeps wind from twisting the material and making it stand on end. A roof like this can last decades if it is maintained and repaired. Eventually, as with all natural, organic building materials, it will either rot (and become porous) or dry out (and become porous) and have to be replaced. When that happens, the old roof is removed, the framework is tightened up, and a new roof is installed.

Here are two additional roofs. The one in the foreground is the casita at Nah Yaxche. The big roof in the background is the main roof at Tulipanes, our neighbor.

But what holds this up? Traditionally, trees of the correct diameter are cut, the bark is removed, and they are made into a framework to support the palapa. This is not done with heavy equipment. When something needs to be lifted, several people pick it up and move it into place. This can be heavy, backbreaking work. Here is the inside of the big palapa at Nah Yaxche:

How very beautiful. The tree at the center, holding up the roof is about 14 inches in diameter at the base (about 1/3 m). It is approximately 30 feet tall (about 10 m).

Yesterday, the palaperos arrived to fix some wind damage from the storm that would become TS Arlene. It is fascinating to watch them work. What language are they speaking? Mostly Mayan with some Spanish thrown in. They work quickly and quietly. The repair is done in a flash. I climb a roof to take a photo.

The palapa roof is a wonder. Unfortunately, as there is little new construction in Estilo Robinson Crusoe, and more and more buildings are being built with tile or other material roofs and no full size palapas. But the palapa continues up and down the beach.